New_Omega_Watch_Reviews

Omega’s First Baselworld Release – Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT

2012-01-14T18:42:00.000-08:00

At last! ....an Omega Aqua Terra GMT powered by one ofOmega’s new generation movements. The mostrecent AT GMT on offer was the chronograph version powered by the Piguet-Based calibre3603, and while it had the looks, some argued that it didn't have the rightmovement at its heart. To be officially released during Baselworld 2012 in amatter of weeks, this AT GMT has both: aesthetics uninterrupted by chronographsub-dials and a GMT modification built on to Omega’s exclusive calibre 8500series of co-axials. Designated as theOmega Co-Axial series 8605/8615 this is the first of OMEGA’s exclusive‘in-house’ movements to carry the GMT complication. The movement is equippedwith a silicon balance spring and Omega’s confident four-year warranty applies.

I have waxed lyrical on the ATs dial and case design inearlier reviews, so you will not have to endure any lapse into purple prose here,save to reiterate that a GMT complication on a clean dial is so much easier onthe eyes than such complications on chronographs – no fairground busy-ness here,just outer and inner chapter rings in complete harmony with the circularity ofthe dial and the date aperture subtly placed at six o’clock. The GMT registeris tucked neatly into the ambit of the applied markers and the GMT hand,marginally longer than the hour hand, is outlined in red to make itstwenty-four hour rotation visible but not over-powering. The red touches on thedark teak dial and GMT hand add just the right measure of sportiness to thispiece without limiting the occasions on which the watch can be worn.

All dial furniture is either 18k white or red gold,depending on the case metal chosen, and the hands and indices are coated withwhite Super-Luminova. At 43mm, it’s a big watch and I would have liked to have seenthis 2012 offering measure in at around 39 to 40mm, the size of the new CertinaDSI release at Baselworld this year. Non-Chronograph case sizes, in general, diminishedlast year at Baselworld and it will be interesting to see what the trend is in2012. Ultra thin watches are also makinga comeback (check out the new Rado Thin-Line range) and while clunk and chunkwill no doubt still reign supreme, keep an eye out for what the cutting edgeand style-meisters of watch design are doing.

The AT GMT will be available in Stainless Steel, red gold ortwo-tone models and can be accessorised by matching bracelets or a choice of black,brown or blue leather straps. Expect the price of the Stainless version to hover around the USD 8,500 mark.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Co-Axial calibre 9301

2011-12-20T22:52:00.000-08:00

The Omega Speedmaster family is one of the most visiblewatch collections in the world. While the early antecedents were great spacetravellers and accompanied NASA astronauts on their momentous space missions ofthe late nineteen-sixties and seventies, some of the more recent progeny thathaven’t carried the authentic moonwatch gene have, in my opinion, let theirillustrious fore-fathers and mothers down. I’m pleased to say that the new Speedmaster Co-Axial calibre 9301 model isnot one of them.

For purists, the only Speedmasters worth embellishing thewrist are those that are linear descendents of the moon watch (the calibre321/861/1861 progression), and such tastes are amply catered for with thelimited edition Apollo 15 Anniversary model and the Speedmaster Professionalrange. But, for those who hankered for an automatic version that still offeredsome historical rub-off, the most recent options have been limited to modelspowered by the somewhat effete Piguet-based 33xx and 36xx calibres. Theexception was the more strapping 3212.80.00 calibre1164 date range based on thefamous Valjoux 7750 ‘tracteur, but that was superceded by the sissier calibre3304 versions.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Co-Axial calibre9301 (seen above in the 18k orange gold iteration) adds muscle back into the automatic collection with a new in-house automaticmovement that was designed from the bottom plate up for robustness and accuracy.This collection pays due homage to the famous design elements of theProfessional – classic black dial, tachymeter and original hands – and blowsthe size of the watch out to a weapons-grade 44.25 mm. Not for the faint-hearted and likely to causea back injury to anyone weighing less than 170 pounds, this piece is meant tobe worn with a swagger.

Perhaps a fat wallet lodged in the right-hand back pocketwill help owners of this new Super-Speedie maintain vertical equilibrium, becausethey will certainly need a sizeable stash to pay the $35,000.00 plus for theplatinum version. The more reasonably priced stainless steel version will stilldent the pocketbook at $7,000 dollars plus, with the ‘orange’ gold versionpriced in the middle.

So, what are you getting for your money? The answer is that you’re paying for twenty-firstcentury movement that is one of the most technologically advanced machinescurrently in production: co-axial escapement, free-sprung balance, innovativecolumn wheel and vertical clutch arrangement, silicon balance spring, new-agematerials in some of the components, novel two subdial chronograph configuration,beautifully executed case, an upgraded bracelet that allows better adjustmentwhen links are removed, a four year warranty and a COSC certified chronometer watchthat promises to deliver outstanding reliability over a long period of time.

The Omega Seamaster 1948 Co Axial "London 2012" Limited Edition

2011-07-27T22:07:00.000-07:00

The Seamaster 1948 homage caused more than a few ooohs and aaahs amongst Omega devotees at this year's Baselworld watch fair, and, fortunately, for those instant gratificationists who cannot wait for the 2012 opening ceremony and must have one now, this limited edition of nineteen-hundred and forty-eight pieces goes on sale on July 27^th.

The Seamaster 1948 is derivative, rather than an entirely faithful replica, of one of the very first of this line to be released: the calibre 343 RG powered Seamaster chronometer, model 2518. Seen below, this beefy lugged celebrity is one of the most collectible of the early bullet-proof, “bumper” calibres. And, it is an entirely appropriate choice for the 2012 Olympics, commemorating Omega’s timing of the 1948 London Olympics known as the “Austere Games”. At that time, large parts London were still in ruins; food rationing remained in force, and rubble strewn streets were still a common sight. The 1948 London Olympics was also notable for being the only Olympics where athletes brought their own food and "the Magic Eye", Omega's newly developed photo-finish technology was used for the first time.

In comparing the two pieces, the similarities, rather than slight differences, in design stories become apparent. The applied Arabic numerals at the quarter hour are almost identical, save for the six o’ clock marker that is not present in the original. The faceted arrowhead markers, again, are reasonably accurate facsimiles, the rounded Lance Alpha hands are true to the originals and the chapter ring is the same. The big difference is the size of the sub-seconds dial and the use of a flat opaline surface in place of the domed silvered dial on the 1948 version. The seconds sub-dial could not be located lower on the dial because of the 26mm calibre 2202 movement powering this larger commemorative model. However, I would have liked to have seen a replication of the domed dial as it softens the overall styling of the piece.

The case of the Co-Axial is 39mm in diameter, 5mm larger than the vintage version, and while the wide polished bezel and case middle have been reproduced faithfully, the polished lugs on the new version are marginally more curved. An 18 karat London Olympics medallion replaces the original plain case back. Designed by Wolff Olins, this official logo adds collecting provenance to the piece.

The power plant is, as mentioned above, the exclusive Omega calibre 2202 co-axial. This movement is basically a jewelled-up calibre 2500C with a sub-seconds configuration, a heavily modified version of the ETA calibre 2982. It has appeared in previous museum homage watches such as the Omega Centenary limited edition piece and also provides the power for the De Ville Prestige collection. Featuring a three-level co-axial escapement and breguet overcoil balance, the movement offers a power reserve of around 48 hours and is chronometer certified.

So, does the 48 Co-Axial stand as a worthy successor to previous Seamaster Olympic commemorative watches? I think so. Its classic design certainly stirred the passions of collectors at Baselworld, and while I would have rather seen it come with a domed dial, it needs to be remembered that the watch is a contemporary take on an old favourite. Priced at around $USD 5500.00, it is not cheap for a steel cased, 2500-based Omega, however its limited numbers and Olympic associations almost guarantee its future collectability. On aesthetics alone, I think I would take the plunge.

Omega Launches the Apollo 15 Speedmaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition

2011-07-16T20:56:00.000-07:00

On the July 26, 2011, at 09:34:00 am, it will be forty years since the Apollo 15 mission blasted into orbit from the Kennedy Space Centre at Cape Canaveral, in Florida. It was touch and go initially because the second stage of the Saturn V rocket ignited prematurely, nearly setting off as catastrophic event where the exhaust of the first stage engine was fed back into the propulsion system.

Also notable was the fact that Apollo 15 was the first of what were described as the “J Missions”, featuring extended stays on the moon for exploration and data collecting. It notched up another first with the moon (rather than world) premiere of the lunar roving vehicle, seen below in the company of lunar module pilot, James Irwin, saluting the US flag - although he could have been waving enthusiastically to his mum back on earth - at the Hadley-Apennine landing site. The mission lasted twelve long days.

The circular mission patch showed a stylised rendering of red, white and blue birds flying over the Hadley-Rille section of the lunar surface, which is adjacent to the Appenines Mountains. Encircled by a blue border, the mission and crew member’s names are printed on a white background against an inner red circle. Fashion designer Emilio Pucci designed the patch, but Commander David Scott and crew chose the colour scheme.

A new limited edition Omega Speedmaster commemorates this milestone in the US space program of the seventies by incorporating the colour scheme of the Apollo 15 mission patch into its dial design. The minute index is in blue, white and red, replicating the outer circles of the patch. This colour scheme continues with a blue ring around the small seconds subdial, and white and red rings around the 12-hour and 30-minute counters, adding an edge to the otherwise conservative Speedmaster livery.

The case-back identifies its limited edition status and features a nicely executed image of an astronaut hooning about in the lunar rover, echoing many a boy’s fantasy in those days to go dune buggying on the lunar surface. The lunar rover subject on the medallion was chosen to mark the rover's first outing on the moon

The case design is archetypal Moonwatch, with all the customary features that mark the iconology of the Speedmaster design. The case is generously sized at 42mm, but what makes this, and all others of the moonwatch (Speedmaster Professional) ilk, special is the calibre 1861 movement. This classic hand-wind chronograph traces its DNA back to the incredible aviator chronographs produced by Omega in the early 1930s, with its more direct descendants being the calibre 321, designed by Albert Piguet in 1946, and calibre 861, an upgrade introduced in 1968. It is pure horological history on the wrist, and any serious collector of chronographs has at least one.

There have been numerous comments on watch fora about Omega having introduced too many limited edition Speedmasters, but most of that commentary is informed by investment and perhaps exclusivity considerations rather than satisfying a market of collectors who, like in many areas of collecting, want to build limited edition collections and wait eagerly for the next in the series. The Moonwatch limited editions are also created to appeal to the growing number of nostalgists who have developed a renewed interest in memorabilia from America’s pioneering space adventures.

So, is the price tag of around $7000.00 worth the trouble? For lunatics who claim that the US moon missions never took place and harrangue elderly astronauts for being part of the "conspiracy", of course not! But, I would say yes, particularly for those who like to collect the series, and most certainly for those who wish to have a legend purring away on their wrists.

New Omega PLanet Ocean Makes Big Splash on Capri

2011-05-22T17:56:00.000-07:00

Omega chose the splendid Mediterranean island of Capri as the venue for its latest press junket to promote the enhanced Planet Ocean collection and the upgrade to in-house calibres 8500 and 9300 with silicon balance springs in all models. Amongst the guests was Buzz Aldrin, whom Omega usually dusts down and wheels out for Speedmaster events, but perhaps Buzz’s suntan was fading and needed a top up. Seems strange that Omega would would seek to water down Aldrin’s association with the venerable Speedie, but, hey, its done it before with Daniel Craig and the De Ville Hour Vision ‘Blue’.

Less curious was the announcement of a partnership with eco-filmmaker and founder of GoodPlanet, Yann Arthus-Bertrand, to “create a film about the Earth's oceans, serving to remind viewers of these natural beauties that cover two-thirds of the planet's surface and to raise awareness of what can be done to protect them.”

On the subject of natural beauties, the highlight of the gig was the arrival of a blond mermaid - with her own particularly attractive set of natural beauties - bearing freebee Planet Oceans to members of the gawping press. Hey fellas, don’t forget to write those fawning reviews now!

Back to Yann and his project. It is excellent to see Omega building such a strong reputation for good global corporate citizenship. The Solar Impulse partnership, the Orbis project and this new association with GoodPlanet (not to mention the ongoing Buzz Aldrin Life-Support Mission) sets a cracking pace, which other large Swiss watchmakers should follow. Off course, such activities rub off on the brand in a very positive way, but good deeds ARE good deads.

Click here for the full press kit

You’ve read the book...........and now here’s the movie

Omega 2011 Baselworld Releases

2011-03-23T06:21:00.000-07:00

Omega has released a Baselworld video to excite the apetites of watch aficionados and Omega collectors. Run the video below and see if you can identify new releases amongst the watches featured.

One piece you will not see is the new Flightmaster re-release. That release will be left until later this year.

The new Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.50 mm Chronograph, calibre 9300.

This newest of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean family is a thick and chunky 45.50 mm in diameter, as is the case with many contemporary professional dive watches. The stainless steel brushed/polished case is offered with either the much-admired matt aluminium orange bezel or the more subdued matt black ceramic option.

Case design varies little from earlier PO chronographs, their visual appeal enhanced by thoughtful attention to the case middle. The sculptural lines of the curved lugs, bevelled and black polished against a brush finished background, provide an impressive frame for the visage of the watch. Quality of case construction is second-to-none with meticulous edge finishing and detailed treatment of unexposed parts. A brushed screw-in case back with a sapphire crystal completes the ensemble. Matching bracelets are available to those looking for the full stainless steel treatment.

Of course, the feature that has generated the most comments, and indeed compliments, is the two-register dial with the chronograph sub-dial at 3 o’clock. This act of combining the twelve hour and sixty minute counters unclutters and balances the matt black dial and recalls an earlier period when chronographs routinely sported two sub-dials. While I much prefer broad-arrow hands in non-chronograph watches because of visibility issues, I have to reluctantly admit that they enhance the design narrative of the watch.

The calibre 9300 family of chronographs is as yet unproven, and we must look to the calibre 8500 series for hints about the potential of this movement. In its short life span, the calibre 8500 has earned a reputation of being at the vanguard of a generational change of ‘new tech’ production series movements. The employment of new diamond-like carbon coatings on the twin barrels to combat wear, the use of advanced metallurgy, ceramic bearings on the automatic winding system reversers, an innovative gearing system that improves efficiency along the entire gear train, the tri-level co-axial system and Si14 silicon balance all work harmoniously to produce unheard of amplitude deviations that beat competitor movements hands down.

The calibre 8500 series of movements are the twenty-first century successors of the best in production watchmaking and are poised to overshadow twentieth-century technology in the likes of the Rolex calibre 3135. Much of the fruits of this impressive renaissance of Omega in-house movements transfers to the new calibre 9300 series. Only time will prove the reliability and robustness of the chronograph module, but investment made in the design and creation of this calibre offers hope that it will live up to modern expectations of how a tool watch should perform. Priced at around $7500 - $7700, depending on the bezel, this new collection represents real value over its predecessors.

With black ceramic bezel

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Titanium Liquidmetal Blue Dial

Powered by Omega's calibre 8500, this 42mm titanium cased model with liquidmetal bezel has been long awaited by Omega collectors. While going against the trend of smaller cases at Baselworld this year, the blue dial reflects the trend towards less cluttered dials.

The markers, coated with white super-LimiNova and emitting a blue light are a nice size, the bezel is clean, the lines of the case are classic, the blue luminescent broad arrow hands add a little drama to the dial and the overall effect is that of a stylish and balanced design.

The minute hand emits a green light, as does the dot on the diving bezel. This feature makes it easy for divers to keep track of time at a glance. The new hands treatment is designed to provide better readability in a variety of conditions.

The blue rubber strap, while perfectly functional in an underwater setting, adds a measure of urban chic to the overall look of the piece. The watch is also available with a titanium bracelet.

The 37.5mm Planet Ocean White 232.32.42.21.04.001

The amazing Hour Vision Skeleton Platinum Limited Edition

Eighty-eight lucky customers will get to pay around US $48,000.00 for the privilege of owning this limited edition Omega De Ville Hour Vision Skeleton.

First popularised by Parisian watchmaker, Andre-Charles Caron, in 1760, skeletonised watches are the product of ateliers specialising in the high horological arts, where old style crafts specialists cut, bevel, decorate and polish movements to reveal the inner beauty of their workings. A skeletonised watch requires intensive labour and attention to detail, as the intent is not so much to produce a time-telling instrument as it is to create an aesthetic object that can be appreciated for its beauty and high craftsmanship.

Having a long history of creating special pieces, Omega is no stranger to skeletonised watches. In the last two decades we have seen numerous examples offered by Omega, including the skeletonised Speedmaster Apollo in 1994, the Seamaster 50th anniversary model in 1998, moon phase limited edition Speedmasters in 2003 and of recent times the skeletonised central tourbillion models.

A co-axial calibre 8404 with silicon balance spring powers the Hour Vision Skeleton, the base calibre of which is in-house calibre 8500. This model has all the features of the 8500 with the added privilege of being able to peer deep into the mechanism.

Skeletonising has been executed in a contemporary manner, avoiding the flourishes and filigree of the classic craft. The bridges have been severely cut-away and are finished in a strong grain pattern with finely curved bevelling of the edges. The jewels take on the visual effect of nodes and encourage the eye to travel from one point to another and investigate its meaning. The keyless works are a joy to observe in motion as it the silicon spring balance. An 18k gold skeletonised rotor contrasts with the metals of the movement addling a little dazzle to its oscillations.

The 41mm case of the Hour Vision Co-Axial Skeleton Platinum Limited Edition is made from near-pure Platinum, and the now-familiar Hour Vision case structure allows the movement to be viewed from the sides as well as back and front. The beautifully rounded style of the case adds a sculptural element to the aesthetics of the piece and at some angles the lug joins appear as though they are piercing through the large rounded bezel.

The calibre 9300 Speedmaster Co-Axial Chronograph

This new two-register Speedmaster Co-Axial chronograph is powered by the new calibre 9300/9301series chronograph. The dial has two sub-dials instead of the three normally associated with Speedmaster. This is made possible by the innovative placement of the 12-hour and 60-minute counters in the same sub-dial at 3 o'clock allowing a comfortable and intuitive chronograph reading.

Three versions of the Speedmaster 44.25mm Co-Axial Chronograph will be offered. Firstly, in stainless steel with bevelled black dial, white transferred elements, and varnished white hands. A choice of black leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet is offered. The second option is 18 carat orange gold with a black ceramic dial and 18 carat dial furniture. The third option is for those with very deep pockets – 950 platinum with black enamel dial and 18 carat gold hands and applied markers.

While heavy hands in PO chronographs create visibility issues, this Speedie is true to a working chronograph's specifications. The starkness of white on black and classic thin hands offer excellent functionality.

The stainless steel version will retail in Europe for around the USD 8500 mark. Expect to pay around USD 35000.00 for the platinum.

The long-awaited Co-Axial calibre series 9300/9301 in profile

Despite rumours to the contrary, the new 9300 series has been built from the bottom plate up. It is a 14 lignes column wheel movement, measuring 32.5 mm in width, and while superficially similar in appearance to the calibre 8500 series it has not been piggy-backed off this 29mm diameter movement. It does, however, feature a double barrel power system providing a reserve of sixty hours and is equipped with a tri-level co-axial escapement. The movement has a column wheel transfer and a vertical clutch which Omega developed especially for this series.

The chronometer grade 9300/9301 movements leave the factory for COSC testing having achieved a maximum range of 4 seconds variation in all 6 positions in terms of daily accuracy. They are are finely tuned example of contemporary watchmaking, and while only time will tell if they live up to expectations of robutsness and durability, if their sibling 8500 series calibres are anything to go by then expectations about performance and resilience can be confidently placed.

The cosmetic finish of the movement is also similar to that of the 8500, displaying dramatic radial Geneve waves in the now familiar arabesque finish with excellent bevelling of the bridge edges. The 9301 movement is the luxury finish version with rotor and balance cock manufactured from 18 carat gold.

This new calibre is manufactured on plant and machinery especially commissioned by Omega and will be exclusive to the brand. The movement measures 7.6mm in depth, which is approximately 1mm thicker than the Rolex calibre 4130. 7.6 mm is a little over 1/4 inch thick, and with clever case design this thickness should not present a problem. The 32.5 mm calibre should be able to accommodate smaller case sizes as trends begin to dictate a move away from the gargantuan styles of the last decade.

The calibre 9300/9301 is fitted with Omega's Si14 silicon technology. There is substantial freedom in the fabrication of balance-springs made of silicon which allows the Si 14’s geometry to be modified for optimal isochronism, the quality of oscillations occurring in equal periods of time. This isochronous quality reduces the amount of deviation in the watch’s accuracy.

The new calibre 9300 beats at 4hz or 28,800 bph, which varies from the optimal co-axial rate in the calibre 8500 of 25,200 bph. The Omega technical people earlier explained to me that in respect to the calibre 8500, “We can say generally that the transition to a frequency of 25,200 bph for this type of calibre allows the optimum functioning of our Co-Axial escapement, whether for performance, reliability or long-term accuracy.” It appears that in the larger diameter calibre 9300 with chronograph module the design team has been able to lift the beat rate without compromising performance.

Baselworld Trends

This year, a number of makers have been inspired by the Art Deco style of the 1920's and 30's, as well as the marked classicism of the 1950's and 60's, whose simple, elegant lines have made a strong comeback. Notice in many of the current and new Omega lines the strong design reference to the fifties and early sixties in particular.

As an overall trend, Men's watches have returned to a more reasonable 40 to 43 mm in diameter, which makes it hard to understand why Omega in some instances has opted for 45 mm diameter pieces. Ladies' mini timepieces are once again a more fashionable 25 to 30 mm, with the midi a more standard size of 34 to 38 mm.

Simplicity is also evident in the dials, as demonstrated by the Planet Ocean Titanium Liquidmetal blue dial. Many brands have stripped their dials to bare essentials, but they are still finely worked, with embossed, flat, pierced or even totally openworked versions, as in the limited edition Hour Vision skeleton model.

While steel and gold remain the favoured materials, some of the most appreciated finishes are PVD- or DLC-treated. Two-tone models, a favourite until now with Anglo-Saxon clients, have slowly gained in popularity. This year's watches are bolder, with bracelets, straps and cases playing an integral part in this contrast of colours between traditional silvered tones and the lustre of pink or yellow gold. Timepieces are also more classical in appearance, with their round cases, though a few feature more artistic shapes in the Art Deco style. More and more companies have fitted their watches with in-house movements, while tourbillons, striking-mechanisms and perpetual calendars remain the most popular complications.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 44 London Chronograph

2011-03-17T03:05:00.000-07:00

Omega will, again, be the official timekeepers to the next Olympic Games. To commemorate the appointment, the company has released the 44mm Seamaster Aqua Terra London Chronograph. Omega’s association with the modern Olympics is a remarkable achievement and London 2012 will mark the 25th occasion on which the organisation has timed the games.

The AT 44 London comes in two models. The ‘terra’ version offers a two-tone 18 karat red gold and stainless steel case complemented by a black leather strap, while the ‘aqua’ version is constructed from stainless steel and accompanied by a fine brushed stainless steel bracelet, the design of which refers back to Omega bracelets of the late nineteen-sixties and seventies.(Click on the picture for a magnified view)

The aesthetics of the case are a delight to observe, thanks to modern case-making precision and methods. The bezel is mirror polished. It’s a perfect foil for the linear adoucissage finish of the inner lugs which are corralled by a broad raised strip of mirror polish sweeping around the entire outer case. As a piece of sculpture, the case is faultless. The abstract London Olympics logo is deeply pressed into the case back, which will please those wanting a memento of the occasion.

The dial is a standard chronograph configuration with small seconds sub-dial at 0900, 30 minute recorder at 1500 and the twelve hour sub-dial at 1800. The dial surface retains the popular Aqua Terra ‘teak pattern’ design and is coated in an attractive hue of blue PVD. While I have great affection for the luminous broad arrow and blunted dagger minute and hour hands, I believe they are better placed in non-chronograph dials because they impair visibility of the sub-dials and affect the functional purpose of chronographs. But, hey, who is going to let functionality get in the way of what is, essentially, an excellent piece of design.

The AT London is water resistant to one-hundred and fifty metres and has a self locking crown that screws into the crown tube. The pushers are attractive in their dual finish and rounded lines.

The movement? In some ways sadly, a calibre 3313 self winding Piguet manufactured column wheel chronograph powers this piece. Yes, it has all the co-axial fruit and a free sprung balance, but I am not convinced that this series of calibres offers the robustness that one should expect in a tool watch. Granted, there have been a number of design fixes over the years, but the riveted intermediate driving wheels remain a problem for me. If industry scuttlebutt is anything to go by, Omega has recognised the durability issues of this family of calibres and will retire them from their men’s chronograph ranges over time.

A good looking watch the Aqua Terra 44 London is, but if I was in the business of purchasing a commemorative London Olympics watch I might just wait until I discover if any commemorative Olympic models will feature the new in-house chronograph calibre 9300 series.

A New Way to Buy a Watch and Not the Seller

2011-02-04T17:10:00.000-08:00

It's rare for to me to launch into print to endorse any product or organisation because there is a big responsibility implicit in lending support to the adventures of others. However, when something new and interesting comes along that has the potential to improve the experience and safety of purchasing a watch on the global internet, I’m more than happy to share the news.

WatchXchange, has been launched to provide a more secure marketplace for buyers and sellers of pre-owned watches. Vintage watches will not be part of this enterprise because of the immense difficulties in verifying authenticity over the range of available brands. At this stage the service is available to residents of the USA only with street addresses: post office boxes are disallowed.

The buy-sell system will operate by using a “proprietary intermediate transaction process”. What this means is that each individual watch is appraised for authenticity by experienced watch experts and buyers receive “payment protection” on their purchases.

When a deal is done, WatchXchange receives the watch from the seller and inspects it for authenticity and confirms that it has been accurately represented by the seller. If the watch cannot be authenticated or does not match the listing description, it will be returned to the Seller and your payment is refunded. Once confirmed the watch is shipped free by WatchXchange to your door. Sellers pay a “success” and not a listing fee and buyers pay no fees at all.

Many buyers of recent and pre-owned quality watches are recent graduates of the throw-away watches school and couldn’t tell a balance cock from a stop cock. They are sitting ducks for all sorts of criminal and fraudulent enterprise, but, now, with a respected intermediary coming between them and the vendor to authenticate the watch and handle the money side of things, they don’t have to think of the seller at all once they’ve agreed on price.

For those of us who have bought too many watches in our lifetimes, while we may be able to authenticate the watches we buy, we can now be assured that after we wire the money we won’t receive a registered package that contains a rock in a box!

Click here for more information

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The Omega De Ville Hour Vision Blue

2011-01-27T19:22:00.000-08:00

The Omega De Ville Hour Vision family has a newly minted addition, the Hour Vision Blue, which certainly adds a bit of colour to the somewhat dour brown, silver and black dial offerings previously available. While some De Ville dials could be seen as conservative or unremarkable, the convergence of excellent 1950’s derivative design of the 41mm transparent case body, the outstanding beauty and engineering of the calibre 8500 series movement and sophisticated appointments on the dusty blue dial transform this latest iteration of the Hour Vision into something very special.

With trends dictating more black in today’s fashion than there ever was in Joseph Heller’s humour, this watch can be worn across the day and night without embarrassment. It also compliments the more ‘adventurous’ choices of fabric colour favoured in business wear, such as ash grey, charcoal and navy blue, and holds its own with the camel, beiges, khakis and greys worn casually on the weekend. We are truly so adventurous in our fashion choices these days – aren’t we?

Omega also took the opportunity to associate the release of the Hour Vision Blue with a worthy piece of philanthropism by committing to donate a minimum of a million dollars over four years to the international eye care organisation, ORBIS. This organisation of specialists and medicos operates in more than eighty less-developed countries, offering treatment for a range of poverty-related eye conditions that lead to blindness, and it also trains local doctors in oculoplastic surgery. Couldn’t think of a better cause, so more power to Omega’s elbow for its generosity.

But, did they have to bring Daniel Craig into this? I realise that it’s de rigueur for even minor Hollywood hacks to adopt a charity and be associated with ‘good works’ – it’s considered beneficial for career and celebrity maintenance - but, I find it a curious that Omega would link this woody little British actor with the steroidal scowl to the De Ville collection, particularly after having invested a mozza in Seamaster product association with the Bond character. Anyway, let’s forget the hype, give Omega ten heavenly credits for helping ORBIS, forget about Daniel Craig and focus on this excellent watch.

Technically, all the earlier praise of the Hour Vision can be heaped on the Blue. The calibre 8500 power plant features the three-level co-axial upgrade, allowing for autonomous adjustment of the hour hand, an especially nifty feature for those who travel across time zones. The movement is chronometer certified and the case is water resistant to a hundred metres.

The dusty blue dial is finished in the customary ‘sun-brushed’ manner, allowing the light to play beautifully on the four-rimmed raised platform, upon which sit 18 karat white gold facetted markers in the tapered and blunted Hour Vision style. The luminous hands continue the tapered design story with a longer centre sweep reaching out to the edge of the chapter ring. An understated date aperture finishes off this subtle and classic dial design.

The whole combination - stainless steel case, blue dial with white gold dial furniture and black leather strap - gives the Hour Vision collection the depth it needed, and, in the process, gave birth to a true classic.

Click on the pictures for a magnified view

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra XXL

2011-01-18T05:28:00.000-08:00

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra XXL is the perfect accessory for those whose tailoring bears the same label. Making no distinction between walls of muscle or tubs of lard, this AT just cries out to embellish a wrist that would match the circumference of Rush Limbaugh’s head!

Omega literature declares that the XXL has a “bold” 49.2 mm case (‘Bold’ is the current horological euphemism for ‘ridiculous’ or ‘otherwise indescribable’). The case is a dead-ringer of the limited edition Railmaster colossus that shocked, or awed, depending on one’s outlook, the educated watch-buying public a few years ago, only this time it sports the AT livery.

That having been said, the Aqua Terra dial, combined with a sub-dial registering seconds, certainly offers a very clean design narrative and exceptional aesthetics, further flattered by brushed, polished and faceted hands with an attractive broad-arrow minute hand. The hands and the sharp arrowhead markers have super-Luminova inserts, which, to me, compromises the beauty of the dial and consigns the piece to a shadow-land of ambiguous identity. When, and where, would one wear this watch?

The power plant is interesting and has a lineage dating back to hunter-cased pocket watches of the nineteen-fifties, and, in fact, was designed for that purpose. The Omega chronometer certified calibre 2211A is sourced from an ETA calibre 6498 ebauche that was originally designed for pocket watches by the August Raymond SA company Unitas. This company was a casualty of what we now describe as the quartz and throwaway watch crisis of the late 1970s and when Ebauches S.A. absorbed Unitas, Valljoux and other manufacturers within ETA S.A and finally came under the umbrella of the Swatch Group, many of the original ebauche names and calibre numbers were retained. The tools and related equipment for the Unitas 6498 hunter pocket watch movement became the property of the Swatch Group.

So, the calibre 2211A has a glorious history and is of excellent and proven design. (For a nice little 'riff' on this calibre, click here) Even in its more basic ebauche form it is easy to regulate to chronometer specifications. The seventeen jewel hand-wind movement has deep grain snailing on nicely anglaged bridges (which is an interesting departure from the more common Geneva wave design) and functional finish is excellent. This movement is undoubtedly a classic, and while it provides power for many a brand name, including some Panerais, I would have liked to see this 36.6mm movement in a 41mm or 42mm case.

The size of the AT XXL reminds me of the way furniture design went during the Victorian era: from relatively interesting and sophisticated lines and embellishments in the early period to more fruit than on Carmen Miranda’s head in the late period. It seems that human nature dictates that a design trend must be blown out to the point of absurdity before a new counter-trend emerges, and maybe the 49.4mm XXL represents a turning point. But, it still leaves us with the question, who will wear a watch of this size? Japanese sumo wrestlers, steroid-addled body builders, poor little men with a size complex, the criminally obese, for sure, but who else with an ounce of urbanity would touch it?

The Evolving Designs of the Omega Constellation

2010-09-12T01:49:00.000-07:00

The Constellation is often derided by the WIS (watch idiot savant) community as ‘dated’. This is particularly the case amongst tool watch devotees and others who favour more aggressive XL sized cases or those who hanker for the beautifully engineered and designed Constellations of the nine-fifties and sixties. But, despite the less than enthusiastic support amongst collectors of contemporary Omega watches, more high-end watch buyers purchase a Constellation than any other Omega series.

If the Omega Constellation collection was a brand in and of itself, it would be the fourth largest selling brand in the world!

The main supporters of the Constellation are women and buyers from the Orient: Japan, India, China and other Tiger economies just love ‘em. ....and it’s all because of the claws. (Click here for an essay on Carol Didisheim, the creator of this famous design)

The now ornamental claws or “griffes” on the Constellation case are one of the most recognisable watch design features on the globe. Unlike some western cultures, Oriental buyers appear to be more partial to dress and jewellery watches and are often more keenly attentive to the role brands play in communicating rank, wealth and position. In Asia, the distinctive claws of the Omega Constellation summon instant associations of brand eminence, sophistication and exclusivity, which suit the up-and-coming and younger demographics down to a tee.

So, don’t imagine that Omega will be departing from the classic Constellation design anytime soon. With such strong iconography, the Constellation with its unique claws and bezel is one of the most visible status watches in the oriental market, and its designs and positioning will remain static as long as it continues to enrich Omega’s coffers.

The Constellation design has been refreshed on a number of occasions since the advent of the original Manhattan models, the latest of which was just over a year ago. The case size of the mens model was increased to 38mm and the visible bridges and oscillating mass of the movement, decorated with Geneva waves in arabesque, can be seen through the crystal case-back.

Shown above is the mens model 123.20.38.21.13.001 in steel and red gold. An attractive and uncluttered brown dial - brushed in a radial fashion that emanates from the Constellation star - is complemented by truncated dagger minute and hour hands and chunky applied red gold hour markers. A larger rounded bezel with engraved roman numerals is anchored by the flatter and enlarged claws, giving the tonneau case a more aggressive and contemporary look. Under the dial is the exclusive Omega calibre 8500 co-axial movement which is proving to be one of the best series movements produced in the new millennium.

Priced at around $8000.00 USD or as little as $6300.00 at some on-line outlets, the new 38mm series Constellation offers a blend of excellent horology and a legendary design story.

New In-House Omega Chronograph Movement Launches at Baselworld 2011

2010-09-11T16:18:00.000-07:00

Having alluded earlier this year to a production date of 2011, Steven Urquhart, Omega’s CEO, has confirmed during a series of public statements this month that the long-awaited in-house chronograph movement will make its debut at Baselworld next year .

The new chronograph mechanism will not piggyback on top of a calibre 8500 series movement, and will be new from the bottom plate up. It will however copy the 8500's double-barrel power system, will incorporate three level coaxial technology and retain the now familiar column wheel configuration.

This new 14 lignes calibre with a power reserve of sixty hours – slated to be called the 9300 and 9301 - will replace the somewhat effete Piguet chronograph movements in all men’s watches. The Piguet 3313 will be enhanced with three-level co-axial technology and will find a home in women’s chronographs. Having once observed that weighing the mighty calibre 1861 against the Piguet chronographs was like comparing a builder’s labourer to a ballet dancer, I applaud the decision to build a more robust men’s chronograph movement.

Omega has acknowledged the need for a more sturdy chronograph movement with an emphasis on quality and reliability, the subtext of which is that the Piguet series did not live up to such benchmarks. The decision is yet another signal of Omega’s trajectory towards a manufacturing ethos that gave the brand such an unassailable reputation in production watchmaking in the nineteen-fifties and sixties.

I think that Omega aficionados will have much to anticipate at Baselworld next year.

Omega Coaxial Technology

2010-06-19T01:00:00.000-07:00

Omega's introduction of the Co-Axial escapement in 1999 signaled the beginning of a revolution in innovation of escapement technology. Since this bold move by Omega, other watch companies have garnered the courage and resources to attempt their own improvements on the traditional Swiss lever escapement with varying degrees of success.

With the introduction of the exclusive Co-Axial calibre 8500 series in 2007, Omega can rightly claim to have achieved an impressive union of escapement design and watchmaking excellence that delivers better chronometric performance than any other 'production' watch movement in the world.

The short video below follows the production process of the formidable calibre 8500 series movements.

Omega Aqua Terra Jewellery Collection

2010-06-07T02:16:00.000-07:00

These days there's no such thing, strictly, as an evening watch. The standards of formality have relaxed so markedly that the definition of formal wear has become tortuously ambiguous over the last three decades. It’s almost at the point where you could roll up at Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester and bog into the tasting menu wearing little more than designer jeans and a Ploprof on your wrist!!

Wearing tool watches to black tie events and dress watches to work is commonplace…and in some ways more’s the pity. Men just don’t get as many opportunities anymore to climb into a penguin suit, don a precious metal watch, hang an elegant woman off their arm and mingle with polite society. Not that this new informality is particularly lamentable, but the joys of “dressing up” are few and far between these days.

To add to the ambiguity, watch companies have been transforming tool watches (watches designed and engineered to perform a particular function or in a designated environment) into dress watches and indeed dress watches into tool watches – witness the Omega Constellation Double-Eagle range (Talk about a design code identity crisis). And now the lines are to be blurred further with the release of the Aqua Terra jewellery range.

I’m a great fan of the Omega Aqua Terra collection, both from the aesthetic and horological viewpoint. Since I have waxed lyrically on the case lines and design elements of the AT previously, we will explore other features of this newly released series. To start with, Omega has taken a commonsense approach to case size. Discerning some movement in the market towards cases that do not rival the diameter of Dawn French’s backside, Omega has sized the case sensibly at 38.5mm. It’s hardly small by today's standards, but cleverly positioned in the dead middle of the size-fashion continuum.

The dial looks appealing with the Aqua-Terra’s signature teak design finished in black lacquer. The faceted arrow-head markers are dotted with eleven single cut diamonds and there is a brushed 18 Karat gold applied date window at 3 o'clock. The broad arrow minute hand, truncated Dauphine hour hand and arrowhead sweep draw deeply from Omega’s history and the overall effect of dial and hands is that of deliberately understated luxury.

The watch is presented on either a brushed 18 karat gold bracelet with Omega’s patented screw-and-pin system and a safety clasp or a black alligator leather strap with a fold-over clasp. A stainless steel version is also available.

The bezel is paved set with 52 full-cut diamonds and screams money or at least access to an excellent credit line. Overall, when comparing apples with apples, or jewellery watches with jewellery watches, the Aqua Terra has a timeless refinement about it and shapes up very well as an heirloom watch. Couple stylish design with the excellent calibre 8500 series under the dial and you have an aristocratic member of the montre bijoux class of watches.

The market niche for this collection? Women for sure, but I can also see half the Chinese Politburo salivating over these watches. A fair number of the more effete varieties of fashionisti would stab each other in the back for one and wealthy dudes with no sexual identity issues will wear them without self-consciousness. And if you add the usual suspects like gansta rappers, hip-hoppers, crack cocaine lords and Ryan Seacrest clones, there will be no shortages of takers.

Click on the pictures for magnified view

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m White Dial - Another Great White?

2010-04-03T17:40:00.000-07:00

The Omega "Great White" Seamaster GMT Chronometer Ref: 2538.20 was a popular model amongst dive watch aficionados, made more-so after Omega decided to discontinue the line. For those who suffered remorse over not acquiring a Great White while it was in production, the “Greater than Great White” version of the Ploprof 1200m should extinguish any such regrets……at more than double the investment!

Ploprof’s design code is undoubtedly the most distinctive of any dive watch on the market, and the polished, lacquered white dial with applied polished Omega symbol and logo will do much to establish it in the world of fad and fashion. The white Ploprof is still a serious bit of kit for the professional diver, however, its idiosyncratic lines, visual appeal and impressive dimensions of 55m x 48mm x 17.5mm have already ensured its migration to the emaciated wrists of androgynes who walk the catwalks of high fashion, as it has their more beefy brethren who insist time-telling accessories be at least the size of New Hampshire.

The watch, sporting a white bi-directional locking bezel with chrome-coated Arabic numerals, snow white dial with super-Lume polished indexes has an over-sized minute hand crafted from orange anodised aluminium and is coated with white Super-Lume for legibility, as are the varnished hour and seconds hands.

While the white dial softens some of its aggression, the raw, retro-industrial quality of the Ploprof case design means that the nearest to water many Ploprofs will ever get is a sudden downpour, and that’s fine. For the Ploprof “Greater than Great White” is an amazing piece of hardware that demands a wider audience.

For a review of the original re-released Ploprof, click here

Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo-Soyuz “35th Anniversary”

2010-03-22T14:34:00.000-07:00

Above: Deke Slayton and Aleksey Leonov meet in space. © NASA

On July 17, 1975, the unimaginable happened: two Cold War-rivals met in space. The timing was propitious as both super-powers were suffering the debilitating effects of their belligerency down on planet earth. It was a perfect distraction for Americans reeling from the US military defeat in Vietnam, the worsening US economy and the unceremonious dumping of arch-villain Richard Nixon as President. It also provided a useful diversion to the Soviets, suffering under the crushing Brezhnev regime and the privations of a bleak and oppressive one-party state.

The Apollo-Soyuz Test Project saw astronauts Tom Stafford, Donald K. "Deke" Slayton and Vance Brand in an Apollo command and service module docking with a Soyuz capsule manned by Russian cosmonauts Aleksey Leonov and Valeriy Kubasov. This historic ‘coupling’ ushered in a new era of cooperative ventures between two countries that once were fierce rivals in the "space race." As Tom Stafford remarked, the Apollo-Soyuz mission "showed the whole world that if the Soviet Union and America could work together in space, they could work together on the Earth." And so, while the effluxion of time has muted the significance of this important event, it was a very big deal at the time. Big enough indeed for Omega to mark the occasion with a limited edition Speedmaster release at Basel 2010.

The OMEGA Apollo-Soyuz “35th Anniversary” Speedmaster Professional is like any other Professional with the exception of its unusual dial. In a limited edition release of 500 pieces, it is powered by the indestructible hand-wind calibre 1861, a direct descendant of the Moon Watch. (click here for an excellent review of the 1861 by Jack Forster)

The dial was produced from a meteorite (Omega has not revealed where or when the object was found) that hurtled through the earth’s atmosphere and survived high-speed impact with the terrestrial surface. The meteorite’s unusual structure is the result of its very high temperature when it enters the Earth’s atmosphere, followed by a period of cooling. The dial is a single piece cut from the meteorite; accordingly, because no two pieces of the meteorite are exactly alike, each watch in this limited edition is absolutely unique.

The black colour of the meteorite dial is the result of a surface oxidation process. The silvery seconds hand and chronograph counters appear in the meteorite’s natural colour. In the flesh, this is a stunning looking piece and may well turn out to be eminently collectible because of its limited numbers and one-off dial treatment.

Click on the above pictures for high-res images and for an incredible resource on Speedmasters click here for jean-Michel's Speedmaster-Mission.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar

2010-03-20T06:05:00.000-07:00

The new Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is about the closest thing you will see to line breeding in horology, for this Seamaster is a living embodiment of the genetic material that made the House of Omega such an unassailable presence in the world of production watchmaking during the halcyon nineteen-fifties and sixties.

Precision, ingenuity, quality, durability and style were the foundations upon which Omega’s reputation was originally built, and it’s gratifying to see a strong selection of these genes combine with today’s technology and meticulous production processes to create the Seamaster genotype we see in the Aqua Terra today. This is not hyperbole, but recognition of the long and restorative journey undertaken by Omega towards its true origins.

While some horological petrol-heads (a complimentary term that describes lovers of mechanical watches) have slated Omega’s Basel offerings this year as somewhat pedestrian, another way to view the company’s 2010 Basel releases is that of a year of consolidation: a year of building on a solid base of real accomplishment and innovation over the last decade. Let’s not forget the U.S. financial debacle and its impact on many of the boutique and less honorable Swiss brands, and let’s not forget that crises of this nature have a way of influencing trends and preferences. And so, we see prudence and circumspection reflected in the Omega 2010 portfolio – rightly so for any responsible watch producer.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra Annual Calendar is a natural outcome of this period of consolidation. Firstly, Omega recognises that that the Aqua Terra collection is a favourite amongst those who know their watches and are impressed by good engineering, good design and thoughtful innovation. Secondly, the AT Annual Calendar is powered by the in house Co-Axial 8601/8611 series (see here for a review of this family of calibres). Thirdly, the classic design of this model means that, unlike some of the more grotesque tool watches on offer across the brands today, the Aqua Terra is a stayer, and a likely collectible of the future.

The AT Annual calendar has authentic and not faddish style. Let’s explore the aesthetics of the bi-colour stainless steel and 18k pink gold model. The matt black dial is machined to create the appearance of decking, described by Omega as a “teak concept”. The surface of the dial has been radially brushed and the pink gold dial furniture strongly etched in a linear adoucissage finish. Sculpted in a contemporary asymmetric fashion, the date surround compliments the blunted applied arrow head hour markers beautifully. The classic Omega symbol and logo are applied in pink gold and all lettering is expertly embossed. A faceted and blunted Dauphine hour hand is contrasted by arrow-headed minute hand and second sweep. This uncluttered but strong union of design features renders a pleasing, timeless and sophisticated effect.

The case is an understatement. The polished pink gold bezel is offset by a brushed finish on the case body with a classic black polish chamfer that curls around the lugs, referencing four decades of case design of the Seamaster marque. A semi-recessed crown completes this elegant and subtle case design.

As mentioned earlier, The AT Annual calendar is powered by the OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8601/8611. It is a high-precision COSC-certified chronometer that features the additional functionality of an instantaneous jump annual calendar complication. The movement automatically recognises months with 30 and 31 days and needs to be manually corrected only once a year, on March 1st. It also features an exclusive Si 14 balance spring that eliminates issues of magnetism and results in minimal loss of recovery of oscillating performance of the balance wheel when subjected to disturbances or shocks.

Perhaps in hindsight the Aqua Terra Annual Calendar will be viewed by collectors as a milestone piece, a watch that represented the very DNA of a revived and revitalised Omega manufactory.

Omega Constellation Double Eagle Four-Counter Co-Axial

2010-03-19T20:44:00.000-07:00

This latest Omega Constellation launched at Basel 2010 is a Constellation Double Eagle Co-Axial with four counters staggered across the centre of the dial, a flow-on design from the Beijing Olympics Speedmaster that featured a similar but first-time-ever five counter configuration.

The Speedmaster counters – entwined Olympic rings - were in tribute to the Olympic tradition and contributed to a truly stunning piece of dial design. So, once having pushed the envelope, it was always a possibility that Omega designers would return to this idea and modify it for inclusion in other Piguet—based calibre 3xxx lines……

But a Constellation???…And using an aggressive black, red and silver livery more suited to the wrist of a Hell’s Angel’s sergeant-at-arms than snuggling the delicate and refined styloideus ulnae of a fully paid up member of the Beverly Hills Country Club????

Contrary to the opinions of some, many Omega aficionados enjoy the more ‘edgy’ styling of the Double Eagle family- even the chequered dial when framed in a gold case - but the question needs to be asked, couldn’t Omega designers have found a better home for this ‘look’ than the Double Eagle? Perhaps as a new signature piece in the Speedmaster range?

For some time now, Omega has aligned some of the Constellation family with the game of golf, particularly competition golf, hence the Double Eagle appellation. We’re not talking public golf courses here, but the kind of golf courses that offer membership to those who can actually afford the price of one of these watches, and that’s where this Double Eagle appears to fail the positioning test. It’s sporty for sure, but ‘golfy’, country clubby, neo-patrician and ‘let’s go for cruise in the Bentley’, it ain’t.

This new Double Eage four-counters is powered by the co-Axial calibre 3890, is a COSC-certified chronometer and has integrated black rubber strap with a satin-brushed stainless steel foldover clasp.

The dial offers eighteen carat white gold faceted hour markers, faceted and truncated Dauphine hands, and applied OMEGA symbol and name. Above the four counter configuration is a window revealing the day of the week. A date window at 6 o’clock completes the dial, which is protected by a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.

The screw-in transparent sapphire crystal case back gives you an eyeful of the well-finished movement and the case is equipped with a black aluminium bezel with silver Arabic numerals that is more at home on a diving watch than on the back nine. This is divided by the signature Constellation ‘claws’.

The Constellation Double Eagle Four-Counters was meant to express a distinctive flair. Distinctive the dial is, but miscast in the Constellation range.

Click on the pictures above for larger views

Omega Universal User Manual

2010-02-27T15:45:00.000-08:00

Omega's universal users' manual is a useful handbook for those interested in the specifications, operating instructions, precision tolerances and other information specific to Omega calibres.

The publication covers all current Omega calibres, canvasses various other special watch features such as helium valves and bezels and even details the COSC process under which all Omega mechanical chronometers are subjected.

It also works as a pre-purchase companion for Omega enthusiasts who wish to weigh up the features of different Omega models.

Click here for a pdf file

The Omega Skeletonised Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition

2010-01-21T03:29:00.000-08:00

The concept of the Omega Central Torbillon first appeared in 1994 when Andre Beyner and Mauritz Grimm created the first tourbillion mechanism ever placed in the very centre of the movement. Launched to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Omega brand name, Omega has continued the production of these fine horological pieces in a range of jewelled, grand luxe and simpler forms ever since.

The latest offering coming from the company that manufactured one of the world’s first tourbillon wristwatches in 1947 marks yet another milestone in Omega’s long-term strategy to regain its place as Switzerland’s premier luxury mass-production brand. Students of the post-millenium evolution of the brand point to the introduction of co-axial technology, the re-emergence of in-house movement manufacture with the calibre 8500 series, the repositioning of the De Ville with innovative case designs, the early adoption of liquid metal and silicon technology, and even the ongoing establishment of Omega Boutiques as clear evidence of its upward trajectory.

The OMEGA Central Tourbillon Co-Axial Platinum Limited Edition is the second series of skeletonised models released, the first appearing in 2006 with highly decorated finishes and a jewellery version set with baguette diamonds around the bezel. In this new limited edition collection of 18 pieces, the aesthetics are more minimalist with a hand polished silky adoucissage finish on the skeletonised and bevelled bridges. An exquisitely chamfered balance carraige and tourbillon mechanism, the use of contrasting titanium and gold metals and the finish on remaining movement parts combine to produce a very modern version of high art watchmaking.

In a Tourbillon movement, all of the main components responsible for the timepiece’s precision are assembled in a rotating cage. The titanium cage rotates completely every 60 seconds, offsetting the effect of gravity on the performance of the watch.

To create a skeletonised version of the Central Tourbillon, the watchmaker begins by cutting away any non-essential material from the plates and bridges, then bevelling their edges. Unlike conventional production watches, each tourbillon piece is the work of one specialist who spends up to 540 hours on the creation of the piece. No two pieces are exactly alike and all parts are engraved with the personal initials of the watchmaker on the underside of the tourbillon base to ensure that when a watch is returned to Omega for servicing it will be assigned to its original creator to be worked upon.

The watch features what in the old days would be called a "Mystery Dial". Because the tourbillon occupies centre stage, hands cannot be mounted centrally. And so, reminiscent of Zodiac watch dials of the 1960s, a pair of saphire crystal discs are driven by a system that connects with the extremities of the dics. Upon the separate discs are engraved the minute and hour hand and they appear to circle 'mysteriously' around the tourbillon like moons to a planet.

OMEGA’s exclusive COSC-certified Co-Axial calibre 2636 powers this series of eighteen pieces, housed in a platinum case on an alligator strap. The price is stratospheric for most and you could buy a Bentley Arnage for the same money!

Click on the above pictures for enlarged views

If you want to know more about Torbillions, click here and review the menu on the left-hand column.

Omega Constellation Baguette

2010-01-15T17:17:00.000-08:00

This one-of-a-kind Omega Constellation Baguette model showcases the fine art of jewellery case-making and the creation of ornamental horological artifacts of impeccable workmanship. Designed as an exhibition piece, the Baguette continues Omega’s engagement in the “Montre Bijoux” genre, a tradition that began with the award of a gold medal at the Swiss National Exhibition of 1896.

Often mistaken as ‘bling’ by lesser mortals, watches of this type demand to be appreciated for what they are - a means of extending the conceptual or technical boundaries of jewelery watchmaking. We may see such pieces as the gratuitous paraphernalia of Haute Couture and excess for the sake of excess, but just as Faberge eggs had no purpose other than to enchant owners with their beauty and exquisite craftsmanship, so do examples such as the Constellation Baguette.

Go beyond the glitter of the diamonds and you discover the true design structure of the watch. The entire case has been designed around the dial that displays a “supernova” pattern of beautifully cut and set Wesselton diamonds of matching colour and clarity radiating from a diamond clad star that sits in a universe of mother-of-pearl. Click on the picture above to see how each individual diamond has been especially cut and faceted to play its role in the overall design story – a total of a hundred and forty-six baguette and trapeze diamonds have been applied to the dial, each invisibly mounted so as to reinforce the three- dimensional effects of energy and line that shoot forth from the star.

In total, there are more than 30 carats of diamonds set into the white gold Constellation Baguette. Omega has not yet made it clear whether it will sell the watch after its exhibition days are over, but one can’t foresee a shortage of buyers for this outstanding example of montre bijoux should it be offered.

Almost incidentally, the watch is powered by a member of Omega’s new in-house family of calibres, the ladies co-axial calibre 8421, designed for watches of smaller diameter. But in the instance of the Omega Constellation Baguette, horology gives way to design and the amazing craftsmanship exhibited in the execution of the concept.

Click here for a brochure with further illustrations of this piece.

To learn more about the art of stone setting in horology, click here

The Omega Co-Axial 8500 Series

2010-01-01T07:46:00.000-08:00

The Omega co-axial 8500 series of calibres was released in 2007, a milestone in the history of the Omega brand.

The calibre 8500 is the base calibre for a family of movements that have been released progressively over the past two years and will culminate in the unveiling of the 14 ligne chronograph series. Individual calibres serve the following functions:

Annual Calendar, Calibre 8601 and 8611

Day/Date, Calibre 8602 and 8612

Big Date, Calibre 8603 and 8613

Power Reserve/Small Seconds, Calibre 8604 and 8614

GMT, Calibre 8605 and 8615

14 lignes Chronographs, calibre 9300 and 9301

This collection of in-house calibres exclusively dedicated to Omega watches digs deep into Omega's DNA and brings Omega full cycle in a process of rehabillitation and restoration to its former glory days.

Read the fuller story here

For an excellent review of the co-axial movement by British scientific horologist, Philip Woodward, please click here

Omega Milestone 41 Museum Collection Watch

2009-12-12T17:39:00.000-08:00

Limited Edition of 1,941 Pieces

This ninth Omega model in the Museum Collection bears the appellation “Milestone 41”, a curious name to call a replica of model CK 2080 that was originally launched in 1938. The ‘milestone’ part of the description has me intrigued as well. Does it refer to the 50,000 CHF price paid at Antiquorum 2007 for the 1941 delivered watch that inspired this homage piece? (see first picture above)

No matter, because the decision to honour this essentially military chrono-tachy-telemeter piece was an excellent choice. Said to be popular with high-ranking officers during WW2, the original was powered by a calibre 33.3 CHRO T1 manufactured by Omega’s stable-mate, Lemania. Acquired by Omega during the Great depression, Lemania movements went on to power some of the most famous chronographs Omega ever produced.

The original olive button chronograph was dapper looking to say the least. The reset pusher was part of the functionality of the crown, and the case, with triple mobile lugs attached to a nicely chamfered hood, gave the watch a blue-blooded, military feel. The design conjures up dreams of waxed mustaches, flying leathers, being behind the joystick of a Spitfire, dropping a load on those confounded Jerries and honking and hee-hawing over some droll riposte in the officers' mess!

The original 37.5 by 12mm case was made of stainless steel, however Omega has enlarged the case by .5mm and fashioned it out of 18 karat white gold. The Milestone 41 is powered by a hand-wound Omega calibre 3202, a work-up of the base Piguet calibre 1283 and similar to the engine that powers number three in the Museum Collection, the Officers Watch. It is a COSC certified chronometer fitted out with Omega’s proprietary co-axial escapement system.

I would have liked to have seen the Lemania-based calibre 1861 under the bonnet of this piece as it would have maintained a link with the Lemania heritage of the original. Tough as old boots, the calibre 1861 is a direct descendant of the famous calibre 321, and to compare it to the finer and more delicate Piguet-based 3203 would be like standing a builder’s labourer alongside a ballet dancer. But, I suppose this illustrious member of the Omega Museum Collection will spend more time in its elegant box than bouncing about in a theatre of war as did the original and so robustness isn’t part of the brief.

The dial is a marvel, varnished black, replicating the original telemetric scale on its first outer ring. It features a minute track on its second outer ring and a “snail” tachymetric scale on the inner ring based on 1000 units per hour. The hour indexes and 12 and 6 numbers are coated with Super-LumiNova.

Comparing old with new, it has to be said that Omega has faithfully replicated the most alluring features of the vintage piece, and that is very much part of the attraction of the Milestone 41. While in no way a daily banger, this museum collection wonder will look as good in an opera box as it would in a Wall Street bull pit.

Click on the photographs for enlarged view

Omega Seamaster LiquidMetal Planet Ocean

2009-10-09T03:19:00.000-07:00

The new Seamaster Planet Ocean Liquid Metal ® watch has been launched to mark the 1948 birth year of this, one of Omegas most enduring marques. Produced in only 1,948 pieces, it also attracts a limited edition price of above $6000.00 USD. Orders for this model have been strong and the rumour is that precedence is being given to Omega boutiques, a number of smaller authorised dealerships having little hope of securing multiple pieces.
Liquidmetal® is a new class of alloy that behaves similar to plastics, in that it is able to be heat formed in a very similar way to thermo-plastics, but offers the advantages of high tensile strength, superlative resistance to corrosion and very desirable anti-wearing characteristics. The material was created after many years of research by a team at the California Institute of Technology.

To read up on Liquidmetal®, click here.

Omega is believed to be one of the first manufacturers to use the material to produce parts of a watch case, and this is exciting to Omegaphiles because it’s reminiscent of the ingenuity and creative output during Omega’s first halcyon period of the 1950s and 60s.

The metallic glass alloy is made up from zirconium, titanium, copper, nickel and beryllium and can be formed into thicknesses of as little as a tenth of a millimetre, making it an ideal material to create flawless union of the numbers and scaling to the ceramic parts of the Planet Ocean bezel. The black of the ceramic bezel matches perfectly the black of the ceramic dial. Any future fading, if indeed that occurs, will be uniform, and in the next sixty years of the marque's life it may well be appreciated by those collecting this model as a vintage!

The wearing qualities of a ceramic and Liquidmetal® bezel are a far cry from the bakelite confections seen on early Speedmasters and Seamasters and offer excellent protection against the bumps and scrapes of landlubber use. This is of particular import to the countless army of men who wear Planet Oceans as both a work and life accessory.

Under the dial is one of the best contemporary production movements available today. The calibre 2500 Co-Axial needs no fanfare in this instance, because its global reputation of long-term precision and durability. First-class functional and cosmetic finishing enhances the excellent engineering of this proven performer.

So, is the limited edition a ‘must-have’ for collectors of contemporary Omegas? That depends on the degree to which the alloy is deployed in future Omega dive or water resistant watch bezels. Undoubtedly this model will have a higher collectibility rating because of its limited numbers, but it’s hard to believe that after such an investment in applying this technology Omega will not use it in future models. Thus, the choice becomes one of being first or waiting for the technology to surface on other Omega bezels.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m “Vancouver 2010” Limited Edition

2009-09-28T06:47:00.000-07:00

While some have hinted at parsimony when referring to the meagre Omega offerings for the Vancouver 2010 Winter Olympics (particularly compared with the treasure trove of models released during the Beijing extravaganza), this may well be a bonus for serious collectors. A run of 2010 pieces for each of the 41mm and 36.25mm versions points to genuine future collectibility. It’s a watch to pass on to the next generation, so if you purchase one do make sure you keep the boxes and papers!

The Seamaster Vancouver is a thoughtfully designed collectors' piece that is quintessentially Canadian in its colour palette and evocative of the Winter Olympics program. Its colours are taken from the Canadian national flag: a snow white lacquer dial with a red embossed Seamaster logo, black Omega symbol and lettering set against an anodised red bezel with silver index and numbers. The bezel sits strikingly within the classic scalloped case rim and signature Seamaster beveled lugs.

The hands are also part of the Seamaster Professional livery, skeletonised and coated with super LumiNova. The centre sweep is nothing short of dinky, featuring coloured Olympic Rings as a counterweight to the red-tipped “business side” of the sweep. Simple round hour indices coated with Super LumiNova mark each hour.

One or two commentators have questioned the choice of a Seamaster as a commemorative Olympic watch, hinting that a chronograph of some sort is more proper. To me, it’s refreshing to see a configuration with a simple date window do the honours, and aren’t we getting a tad weary of all those big tool watches, the functions of which people rarely ever use, commanding all the attention? In my opinion, the uncluttered snow white dial is infinitely more suggestive of the conditions in which this Olympic competition will be held.

The Seamaster Vancouver case houses a chronometer certified Omega coaxial calibre 2500, reviews of which appear in other posts below. It’s a proven workhorse that matches up to any Rolex calibre you care to mention. The caseback design continues the Canadian theme, showing the Winter Games logo and “Ilanaak”, an abstract sculpture that denotes “friend”.

This Seamaster carries all the fruit of the Seamaster Professional series and retails at around the USD $3800.00 mark, probably a few hundred less after a bit of spirited bargaining. As a collectors piece, particularly for Canadians wishing to commemorate the games, it represents good value. For me, an eminently collectible one of two thousand and ten (for each case size) that screams “out of the ordinary”.

Omega Planet Ocean Diamond Bezel Collection

2009-09-12T06:59:00.000-07:00

It had to happen – a Seamaster that not only glows in the dark but glitters in the light!

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Bling and Planet Ocean Chronograph Bling collection are either a group of multi-purpose time-keepers or a family of glittering wetsuit wannabes. Designed for men (and women who have a penchant for big watches), It’s doubtful that these watches will ever grace the wrists of those who enjoy recreational diving on sunken hulks: they could however be an attractive accessory for the heiress or daddy’s little princess who fixes her sights on diving on the odd sulken hunk after having consumed one too many gin slings!

And while the only thing brand ambassador Nicole Kidman is ever likely to dive into is a cocktail frock, she was reported to have not wanted to take her Seamaster Planet Ocean Bling off after a feature photo shoot. It is not known whether her motives were based on avarice or aesthetics, but there are enough diamonds on the bezel of the Seamaster PO Bling to excite the attention of many a Hollywood diva.

In the flesh, the PO looks striking and not at all over-the-top. The uncompromisingly masculine styling of both Planet Ocean models are somewhat softened by their glittering bezels, making these watches equally at home in the boardroom as they are in the lap pool. The uni-directional rotating bezel features a Super-LumiNova dot on black triangular ground at 12 o’clock.

The Planet Ocean chronometer is powered by the coaxial calibre 2500, a proven performer in the Omega stable and comes in case sizes of 45.5mm and 42mm, the latter with 45 slightly smaller diamonds totalling 1.73 carats. The lacquered black dial sets off the diamond polished applied Arabic numerals. Diamond polished rhodium-plated hands are coated with white Super-LumiNova. The stainless steel screw-in case back is stamped with the recognisable Seahorse medallion and the integrated black alligator strap is clasped by a stainless steel fold over.

The chronograph model, also shown above, at 45.5 mm, sports 45 sizeable diamonds totalling 2.65 carats. It has a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute recorder at 3 and a 12-hour recorder at 6, with a small date window at 4:30.

While these watches are not for everyone, they certainly fit the bill for the man or woman who likes to show off a tad with an aggressively styled jewellery watch….or two

Click here for a picture review of these and other Planet Ocean models

The Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronoscope

2009-08-02T06:37:00.000-07:00

The Omega De Ville family has risen from bona fide hoi polloi to patrician status over the short span of forty years. As in real life, it’s amazing what can be achieved with several successful dips into the gene pool over a generation or two. The latest De Ville offspring - the Chronoscope triplets - have handsome bone structure, rather sporty leers and enough pheromones to beguile any tool-watch sophisticate.

Inspired by the success of the De Ville Rattrapante collection, the De Ville Co-Axial Chronoscope is available in a selection of matt black, red and silver dials with contrasting sub dials that facilitate the reading of the chronograph functions. The dial is a masterwork of design with faceted hour markers that allow the light to literally dance. A superbly machined 24 hour chapter ring and a guilloche tri-compax sub-dial configuration sitting within a brush finished sphere combine with colour contrasts to spectacular effect. The red and black version is simply stunning.

The Chronoscopes are powered by Omega’s calibre 3313, self-winding movement with Co-Axial escapement, while the GMT version features the calibre 3603 version of the 3313. The column-wheel system is designed to ensure a smooth start to the sweep of the seconds hand when the chronoscope is activated. It also provides precision stop and reset functions that do not interfere with the main timekeeping function of the watch. As mentioned in earlier reviews, a number of ‘fixes’ were applied to this movement, which are believed to have corrected problems experienced with earlier versions.

The 41mm case is available in polished or brushed 18-carat yellow or red gold and stainless steel. Its sculptured lugs, convex bezel and a series of curved and straight lines on the case side, create the appearance of an indestructible leviathan. This is very strong design indeed.

With its certified chronometer status, 52-hour power reserve and water-resistance to 100m, the De Ville Co-Axial Chronoscope offers excellent performance coupled with eye-gasmic looks. Starting at a little over $6000 USD (although 1000 dollar discounts are not unheard of) this is one helluva watch for the money.

Click here for a review of the GMT version

Omega Seamaster Chronometer Bond 2531.80.00

2009-07-26T06:21:00.000-07:00

It has taken Omega thirty years to recover from the disasters brought on by the Quartz Crisis. The introduction of cheap Quartz and throwaway watches in the 1970s brought the Swiss watch industry to its knees. The Seamaster 300M Professional, known as the “Bond Seamaster”, has made an immeasurable contribution to the revival of Omega’s Fortunes, more than any other marque in the Omega family.

In the 1960s Omega was the number one watch company in Switzerland, out-selling and out-ranking Rolex as Switzerland’s high–value, sub-haute horlogerie watch brand. The price of an Omega chronometer was respectably higher than that of Rolex and the brand name was as close to a household name as you could get. That was then, and now is now, and Omega continues to make headway towards the coveted spot of King of the Production Watch Brands, in no small way bolstered by its Bond association.

The Seamaster Bond Professional has become one of the world’s best known land-lubber diver’s watches since Pierce Brosnan first sported an earlier example in the 1995 Bond movie, Golden-Eye. The watch made its market debut in 1993, and it’s endurance for more than 16 years is a testament to both its design and performance. In the world of watch design, sixteen years is a very long time.

The signature guilloche dial with its wave pattern endows the watch with a stylishness that’s as much at home at a business meeting as it is on a sun-drenched beach. The appearance of the uncluttered dial changes as the light quality fluctuates, and the broad, albeit skeletonised, hands provide both functional and aesthetic rewards. The hands are tipped with a super-luminescent material, as are the applied markers, and this makes telling the time at night a reasonably effortless enterprise.

Whether it’s a splash in the spa or a serious dive, the Bond Seamaster is up to the job. It features a helium release valve that is very useful in a decompression chamber where helium in the atmosphere can penetrate and build up in the watch, ultimately popping the crystal if the pressure isn’t relieved. While the nearest to a decompression chamber most owners will get is an unnaturally long stint in the dog-house avoiding the recriminations of a woman scorned, it is a nice feature to have on a watch.

Framing the dial is a unidirectional rotating bezel designed to track the remaining air supply available. A choice of either black dial and bezel or blue dial and bezel is available, depending on your selection of case metal, but for my money the blue waved dial and complimentary bezel is the better option.

The case contains a confluence of interesting lines: deep polished chamfers extend to the breadth of the lugs; twin arcs extend protection to the screw-down crown and counterbalance beautifully the circular bezel, making this watch a classic no matter where it is worn. Powered by a calibre 2500 automatic movemen, proven over three decades, the Bond Seamaster is a watch for all seasons.

To return full circle to the Rolex-Omega nexus of the 1960s, click here for a comparative review of the Bond and Rolex Submariner by John Hollbrook. And yes, the Bond wins!

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M

2009-07-19T17:29:00.001-07:00

The 1970 Omega Ploprof was one of the most aggressive and robust dive watches ever produced. As a piece of design it exuded 1970s brutalism at its best, and as a piece of hardware it could withstand the incredible depth pressures amounting to tons on the total surface of the watch when submerged at over 1000 feet. The Ploprof (a shortening of the French ‘plongeurs professionels’ which means ‘professional divers’) was equipped with a calibre 1002 movement, a mildly disappointing power plant with fundamental design problems that were corrected in later editions of the movement.

You would be lucky to pay less than $6500.00 for a vintage Ploprof these days. In these times of big, brash and chunky watch design, the Ploprof has an allure that transcends its purpose as a dive watch and it was only a matter of time before Omega unleashed this monster in an updated form.

You could say that the Ploprof is horology’s answer to the Hummer. The new version makes the same ‘Get outa my way’ statement, and, like the Hummer, performs best in its intended environment. The new Ploprof 1200M, as its name suggests, is water resistant to an astounding 1200 metres (4000 feet). While you may have the life crushed out of you at that depth, the mighty Ploprof will remain seaworthy.

The watch in its new form has a better movement than the original. Under its reinforced bonnet is the Omega Co-Axial calibre 8500, a power plant shaping up to be a classic in production watch design and technology. It is an automatic calibre driven by a highly efficient bi-directional rotor transmitting energy through two barrels that provide the watch with a power reserve of 60 hours. The movement is adjusted and certified to chronometer standards.

Time and date adjustments are made by unscrewing the crown, positioned at nine o’clock, to release the protective buffer and then pulling the crown to the appropriate position. The hour hand can be adjusted separately to accommodate different time zones.

At the 2 o’clock position is the bezel-release security pusher with an orange anodised aluminium ring. Pressing the pusher allows the bezel to be rotated in either direction and then locked firmly in position, ensuring that it cannot be accidentally shifted during a dive. The Ploprof has an automatic helium escape valve located on the side of the case at the 4 o’clock position. This feature allows helium atoms to escape during decompression, and is particularly useful for professional divers operating from diving bells.

The case is made of brushed stainless steel and has polished bevels. The centre piece of the two-piece oriented caseback features a background of straight, parallel waves with a polished Omega logo, the word “Seamaster” and the famous Seahorse on a matt surface.

The Ploprof 1200M is available either with a brushed mesh "Sharkproof" bracelet or on a rubber strap in a choice of black or orange. Let’s hope that you never have need of the sharkproof feature, which, in many ways, is overkill. The bracelet also features an extra divers’ extension to 26 mm so that the watch can be worn comfortably over a diving suit.

With prices starting at around the seven and a half thousand dollars mark, this is the ultimate in diving watches with a price to match.

Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 Chronograph

2009-07-15T06:13:00.000-07:00

A COSC certified chronometer with chronograph features in the sub haute horlogerie echelon, where Omega, Rolex, IWC and other iconic brands perch comfortably, usually commands a price of six to ten thousand USD. And yet the Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00, powered by one of the most resilient chronograph movements on the market today, requires an investment of less than $USD3000.00 after haggling……sometimes a lot less.

Under the dial is an Omega calibre1164 self-winding movement with a reserve of 44 hours. This calibre manufactured by Omega’s sister company ETA is based on the famous Valjoux 7750 ‘tracteur’. First released in 1973, the base calibre is one of the most ubiquitous chronograph movements used in watches today and is a proven performer over time. Click here for a history of the movement.

Finished to Omega standards that elevate the power plant to that of a high-value movement, the Speedmaster 3212.80, adequately serviced, will last two lifetimes.

Because of the widespread use of the base ETA calibre, most watchmakers know their way around the movement, and so when the warranty runs out you need not pay premium servicing prices. Click here for a review of the calibre by Walt Odets.

While the dial comes in white, silver, black and blue, the most eye-catching combination is the blue dial framed by a blue tachymeter bezel, creating a striking contrast with the brushed stainless steel case and bracelet which, incidentally, has a fold-over-clasp-with-double-push-button-safety. This combination delivers a degree of panache often unattainable in the clunkier tool watches.

The dial has a date display at three o’clock and an assymetical sub-dial configuration that really works as a piece of design. The skeletonised pointed index hands and arrowhead centre sweep, combined with the classic Speedmaster case lines provide a reference point to the Speedmaster’s heritage.

Few would disagree that the Omega Speedmaster 3212.80.00 is one of the best buys in the Omega range.

Omega De Ville Hour Vision Annual Calendar

2009-07-07T06:58:00.000-07:00

The name De Ville was coined by Omega’s U.S. agent Norman Morris in the 1960s to add a sliver of working class respectability to a collection of entry-level Seamaster monocoques that were part-assembled in America. It was a name closely associated with automobile manufacturer, Cadillac. The commandeering of the De Ville name by Cadillac - translated from French, it means ‘City’ - was quite appropriate, when you consider that some of its models in the 1960s were the size of a small one.

Omega so liked the name that it adopted it and there evolved a complete collection of watches under the De Ville banner, which, by 1967, had become the largest collection within the Omega stable. From its lower price point origins of simple, but youthful models adaptable to the latest fashion trends, the De Ville has come to exemplify urban sophistication - with a price tag to match.

While the Constellation lays claim to ‘Dress Watch’ status, it is the De Ville that has become a symbol of style and elegance. From the design and finish through to the in-house calibre 8611 co-axial movement that facilitates an instantaneous jump calendar complication, the Hour Vision Annual calendar is a watch for those who appreciate excellent case sculpture, function without the fussiness of a tool watch and high tech horology.

The novel features of this watch are threefold. The annual calendar feature that factors in months with 30 and 31 days, the glass casket-like construction of the case that offers four lateral openings made of sapphire crystal and a cutting-edge silicon balance spring that offers an unprecedented level of accuracy in a series production watch.

The Deville Range comes in eight models and a limited edition signature piece: four in red gold and four in stainless steel, all with dials identical in design to that of the Limited Series. Prices start from around the 8500 dollar mark, give or take 500 dollars depending on the generosity of the authorised dealer. For a high-value watch, this price is in the medium range, and I truly believe that Omega has hit the ‘Classic’ mark with this beautiful timepiece.

The Omega Railmaster Chronometer

2009-07-04T00:47:00.001-07:00

Over many years it’s been an Omega tradition to create facsimiles of its iconic models of the past. This is a smart marketing move as it reinforces the rich bloodlines of a prestigious brand and adds heritage value to owning a contemporary Omega. Amongst the more recent of these offerings is the caliber 2403 Railmaster, a watch of clean simple lines and stark dial contrasts.

Based on the famous and highly collectible Railmaster CK 2914 created in 1957 (see first picture above) as a successor to a watch produced for the British Air Force in 1953, the Railmaster 2803.52.37 at 39.2 mm in diameter is marginally larger than the original 38mm case, although the mid-size at just over 36mm would be ideal for those with smaller wrists.. The original also had a double anti-magnetic case to protect the movement from strong magnetic fields, however with modern metals of today and high-tech hairsprings, such measures have been rendered largely redundant.

The new Railmaster case has an angled polished bezel not dissimilar to the original. Whereas the original has a fairly uniform appearance on the rest of the case, its progeny features a satin brushed finish on lugs and case side, interrupted by highly polished bevelling that widens out at each lug and sweeps down the lug end. This creates a three-dimensional effect to the case and adds a level of design sophistication not present in the 1957 model.

The flat black dial, uncluttered by various sub-dials, has a simple chapter ring punctuated by luminous arrow hour markers. A perigal centre sweep and large skeletonised pyramid minute hand (often known as a broad-arrow) and a skeletonised dauphine-like hour hand are reasonably faithful to the original design.

So why the Railmaster? Well, putting aside Jeremy Clarkson’s enthusiastic recommendation, the Railmaster’s classic lines and heritage make it a watch that can be worn through various fads and fashions. It’s a watch for life, not only in the sense of its timeless style, but also for its solid work horse movement.. Based on the incredibly reliable ETA 2892-A2, the caliber 2403 has a free sprung balance and George Daniels Co-Axial escapement and is meticulously finished. With a good service at recommended intervals this movement will keep on purring well into, and probably beyond, your old age! For a review on the ETA 2892, click here

Priced at roughly $3000.00 USD in stainless steel, depending on how generous your authorised dealer decides to be, the Railmaster offers incredible value.

Omega GMT Solar Impulse Speedmaster

2009-07-02T06:22:00.000-07:00

The Omega Speedmaster GMT Solar Impulse is the perfect Speedie for those who are indifferent to the marque’s moon heritage and bevy of near-fossilised heroes who wore the watch during those heady days of U.S. lunar missions. Rather, the Solar Impulse is a tribute to an ambitious contemporary adventure of some magnificent men in a flying machine powered only by the sun who plan circumnavigate the world. (Click here for information on this important and innovative project)

Omega is a major partner in this endeavour and in keeping with its long tradition of releasing models to mark important events, Omega’s Steven Urquart said, “Following in the steps of Omega’s pioneering history and in particular our participation in the conquest of space and the Moon landing, I believe the Solar Impulse project gives us an authentic and far-reaching platform to communicate a very important message in today’s world in a solar powered aircraft”

The Omega Solar Impulse is slightly less in diameter than the Solar Impulse’s wingspan at 44.25 mm. Crafted from Grade-2 titanium, including the crown and pushers, the case houses a 37 jewel Omega caliber 3603, a seriously souped-up and decoratively finished Piguet 1285 column wheel chronograph with free sprung balance and a signature Co-Axial escapement. The movement purrs along at 28,800 oscillations an hour, allowing a timing accuracy to within 1/8th of a second. From all reports, this is a very reliable engine.

The screw-in case-back features the engraving of the "Test Flight" inscription. The sapphire crystal gives reliable protection against the bumps and grinds of daily life and has a dual anti-reflective coating. The watch will sustain pressure at 100 metres, and just in case you intend snorkelling to that depth it has a very attractive optional rubber strap.

The high tech feel of this watch is reinforced by the dial and dial furniture: from the central 24 hour GMT hand with an areoplane shaped pointer to its black carbon fibre dial with a texture that is pure “design industriel”. The dial features centrap hour and minute hands and a chronograph seconds hand and is framed with an understated black and white bezel which allows attention to be directed to the rest of the case and its heavily chamfered lugs. Overall, the design of the Solar Impulse, combined with its high-tech materials, makes it one of the meaner looking tool watches on the block and a fitting companion on the wrists of those intrepid aviators who hope to make history.

Click here for the full technical manual for the 3603

Omega Planet Ocean - Heirloom of the Future

2009-06-30T07:22:00.000-07:00

The 42 mm Planet Ocean is one of the finest looking dive watches in the Omega collection. While the Planet Ocean ‘Big’ (2900.50.91), at more than 45mm diameter, may suit those who wish to wear a timepiece that can be easily transformed into a navy SEAL landing craft (there is even space to attach a couple of high powered out-boards), it is the PO ‘Normal’ (2201.50.00) that I believe will ultimately become a true ‘collector’s’ piece.

The Planet Ocean combines modernity with genuine Omega DNA to produce a watch that reflects a synthesis of the classicism of the famous Seamaster dive watches of the 1970s and contemporary stylistic preferences. It was originally released with a black bezel and white characters. Later the stunning orange bezel with orange characters on the quarter hours was released, and later still, a black bezel with orange characters was produced for those, who, perhaps, couldn’t make their minds up about the ideal colour palette.

The Planet Ocean is powered by an officially certified automatic Omega Co-Axial calibre 2500 movement, which is a beautifully modified ETA 2892 ebauche, complete with free-sprung balance. It is an extremely reliable work-horse movement that has stood the test of time, if you’ll pardon the pun. The George Daniels Co-Axial escapement system elevates this movement into the realms of cutting edge horology, reducing friction and extending service intervals to boot. The movement beats along at 25,200 half revolutions per hour, which, combined with a larger and heavier balance wheel, improves the stability of the movement. The slower beat rate allows a corresponding increase in the power reserve to 48 hours.

Planet Oceans come with a helium release valve (see the second crown at 2200). While this is a boon for deep sea divers who need to release built up helium to avoid serious damage to their watches, please rest assured that you will not need to use this function when you explore the depths of your swimming pool. The concept of gas release in the Planet Ocean is not dissimilar to gas release in humans – they both have to be done with aforethought and manually!

The Planet Ocean, in my opinion, is a true collectible of the future. The 2201.50.00, in particular, eschews size for size’s sake, and, thus, will probably not be found consigned in the darker recesses of some sock drawer of the future because of its dinosaur proportions. Rather, in 30 years, I believe it will have the status of the Seamaster 300s of the 1960s. So, for the investment of around $3000.00 USD (depending on the discounts you may extract from an authorised dealer) you can own an heirloom of the future.

Latest Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

2009-06-27T07:20:00.000-07:00

Since the launch of the OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra collection in 2008, it has been warmly received by watch enthusiasts who have raved about its blend of eye-catching design excellence and innovating watchmaking technology. OMEGA now introduces another member of the family, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph.

Like the rest of the collection, its trademark feature is its “Teak Concept” dial whose vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph’s luxury-finished movement combines OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 3313 and a free sprung balance for outstanding long-term performance. Its precision is confirmed by its COSC-certification as a chronometer. The self-winding watch is also equipped with a column-wheel chronograph mechanism.

The Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph is available in four case materials: 18 Ct white gold, 18 Ct red gold, stainless steel or, in the bi-coloured version pictured here featuring 18 Ct red gold and stainless steel. The watches are available either with OMEGA’s patented screw-and-pin system bracelets in corresponding metals or with integrated alligator straps.

The polished, brushed 44 mm case is water resistant to 150 metres (500 feet) and has a polished bezel. The matt polished screw-in crown is embossed with a polished OMEGA logo and the case features polished chronograph pushers. The Seamaster Aqua Terra Co-Axial Chronograph has a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, as well as a polished screw-in caseback whose sapphire crystal makes it possible to see the Co-Axial movement at work.

The model featured above has a red gold bezel with matching middle bracelet links, reminiscent of some of the classic Omega models 0f the 1960s and 70s.

Click here for a recent review of this model

Omega Constellation Double Eagle Chronograph

2009-06-20T21:36:00.000-07:00

The Omega Constellation Double Eagle reference 1619.51.91 chronograph is without doubt the sportiest and most agressive looking iteration of the Constellation brand. The Double-Eagle is a nich market high-end tool watch with head-turning looks that are both sophisticated and 'edgy'.

Sitting in a relatively conservative case body, the DE draws its exceptional overall effect from the colour palet, dial furniture and other stylistic elements that are used to accessorise the case: Solid 18k red gold chunky markers are applied on a checkerboard dial (in one version) with a stark white chapter ring; Stubbed dauphine hands, merging sub-dials contrasting with a minimalist sub-dial at nine o'clock come together to create a striking visage.

The broad bezel in black with contrasting roman numerals establishes a fine balance with the thick, sculptured claws. The pushers, a modern rendition of chronograph pushers from the 1950s, create a pleasing addition to the profile of the watch. The rubber strap reinforces the contrasts in the case and frames the case perfectly.

The model featured in this review is powered by the Omega calibre 3313. While there has been a low incidence of public reports about the reliability of the calibre 3313 Double Eagle model, it pays to know that in its earlier incarnation there were quite a few concerns expressed by collectors about the movement. Nevertheless, the feedback on these movements has been decidedly mixed and often quite emotional.

The movement is a Frédéric Piguet designed and manufactured calibre. In response to earlier reports on issues of reliability and durability, Omega engineered retrofit parts to address these concerns and the 'fix' parts are now a standard feature in all currently manufactured 3313s. I am still not a fan of the 3xxx calibres because I do not believe they are as robust as they should.

Calibre 3313 is a self-winding chronograph movement with column wheel mechanism and Co-Axial Escapement for greater precision stability and durability of the movement. It features a free sprung balance and a 52 hour power reserve. Water resistance is guaranteed to 100 metres. The 41mm case is fitted with a domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

First appearing in retail establishments in 2004, the Double Eagle family is available in three different versions. But for sheer brilliance in styling the model 1619.51.91 stands tall above the others.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Chronograph

2009-06-20T19:11:00.000-07:00

This new Acqua Terra has particularly striking design features. Its “Teak Concept” dial has vertical lines which are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats. The Aqua Terra Co-Axial GMT Chronograph’s luxury-finished movement combines OMEGA’s exclusive Co-Axial calibre 3603 and a free sprung balance for outstanding long-term performance. Its precision is confirmed by its COSC-certification as a chronometer.

The watch’s GMT hand, which makes one complete rotation in 24 hours, is ideally suited for people who travel frequently between time zones or who need to know what time it is another part of the world.

The watch is available either in 18 Ct red gold or in stainless steel. The red gold model comes with a choice of a matching 18 Ct red gold bracelet or with a brown alligator strap integrated in the case. The stainless steel watch is delivered either with a black “soft-touch” integrated alligator strap or with a screw-and-pin bracelet in stainless steel.

The polished, brushed 44 mm case is water resistant to 150 metres (500 feet). Its bi-directional rotating GMT bezel in either 18 Ct red gold or stainless steel is mounted with a ring coated with black PVD and scaled to 24 hours, which allows the tracking of three separate time zones. It has a domed, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, as well as a polished screw-in caseback whose sapphire crystal makes it possible to see the Co-Axial movement at work.

The 18 Ct red gold model features a teak-grey dial, sun-brushed from the center, with black sub-dials. The stainless steel edition’s dial is vertically-brushed teak-grey with black sub-dials. It has central hour, minute, GMT and chronograph seconds hands and a small seconds counter at 9H. The other sub-dials are the 30-minute recorder at 3H and the 12-hour recorder at 6H.

The facetted hour, minute and GMT hands are made of 18 Ct gold and coated with white Super-LumiNova. The GMT hand is tipped with a red arrow. The dial also has applied 18 Ct gold indexes with diamond-polished sides which are coated with white Super-LumiNova. The OMEGA name and logo on the dial are also diamond-brushed applied 18 Ct gold.

Read Ariel Adams' review of the GMT Aqua Terra

The Latest Omega Speedmaster Caliber 3313

2009-06-20T06:53:00.000-07:00

The new automatic coaxial version (311.30.44.50.01.002) of the iconic Omega Speedmaster is purpose designed for those who like big tool watches. At 44.25mm, it's noticeably larger than the 3570 with a moderately wider tachymeter bezel.

This new model offers the advantage of a date display and automatic winding, but could lose the attention of a few purists with the evolution of the dial design. However, for any fourty-plus owner, the larger markings make the watch that little bit easier to read.

This large and latest Speedmaster is noticeably heavier than the moonwatch and features a new bracelet design using screws instead of the old pins and collars they used on earlier models. The specifications of the watch are as follows:

…Omega caliber 3313 Self-winding Chronograph

…Co-Axial Escapement

…Column wheel mechanism

…52 Hour Power reserve

…Date at the 6 o’clock position

…Continuous seconds hand at the 9 o’clock position

…Matte black dial with recessed sub dials for elapsed minutes and hours

…Scratch resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on the inside

…Scratch resistant sapphire crystal exhibit case back

…Water resistant to 100 meters (330 feet)

This new version maintains a strong design link with its predecessors while offering new features. It satisfies many of the demands of contemporary owners, and while some may feel that the exhibition case back is a travesty, it certainly is a joy to look through and see the movement go through its paces.

the Fredric Piguet co-designed and manufactured Calibre 33xx has had a mixed reception amongst some Omega aficionados, notably the late Chuck Maddox. But, while it may have its detractors it certainly has a cohort of followers on the major watch forums. Notwithstanding improvements to this movement in later iterations, I believe there are better chronograph movements around.

Click here for an even-handed review of the calibre 3313

Click here for a WatchTime article reviewing a range of contemporary chronograph movements

Click here for a comprehensive Omega audio-visual presentation on the history of the Speedmaster

Omega Museum Collection Racend Timer

2009-06-20T06:00:00.000-07:00

The Omega Museum Collection arose from a desire to combine the historical milestones of timekeeping with the technology of the 21st century. The collection mainly targets collectors and lovers of extraordinary watches. The first model of the collection introduced in 2003 was that of the 1938 Pilots Watch and since then some truly magnificent designs have been resurrected, including the the 1915 Tonneau, the 1932 Marine, the 1951 Cosmic,the 1945 Chronograph, and more recently the Racend Timer.

The Omega Museum Collection is one of Omega's show piece collections and the 1949 Racend Timeris a worthy member of this exclusive collection. It takes its name from a ground-breaking piece of Omega timekeeping that solved the problem of multiple finish line arrivals in track competitions.

Powered by a hand-winding Omega 3201 caliber movement, it is governed by a column-wheel and offers 12-hour and 30-minute counters, as well as small seconds. The caliber also incorporates a free-sprung balance and the Omega Co-Axial Escapement. The case size is 39mm.

Only 1,949 pieces of this beautiful watch were produced. It features brushed finishes on the sides, contrasted by polished elements on the lugs tops and bezel. The opaline silver dial features both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale.

The varied elements such as triangular gold hour figures, leaf hands, and the stylised Omega logo recall the design of those much-loved and highly collecible vintage Omega chronographs of the 1940s and 50s.

Click here for a short review and specifications of the watch.

New Omega Constellation Luxury Edition Release

2009-06-20T02:33:00.000-07:00

The Omega Constellation Luxury Edition watches are now appearing in Omega boutiques and authorised dealerships. Shimmer is an understatement, and only males with absolute confidence in their sexual identity, gangsta rappers, Comumbian drug lords and nouveau riche natives of South-East Asia will probably be drawn to 31mm case size version of the collection. They are essentially a piece of jewelery for those members of the species to whom diamonds are their best friend.

The models in the luxury range have identical dials. There are however three distinct configurations of diamonds on their bracelets and cases. The 31 mm model features the magnificent Omega OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8421 movement.

The most blindingly spectacular of the models in the luxury collection feature more than 3 karats of diamonds.

The Constellation that will be most popular with males is the redesigned case body with the wider claws, more reminiscent of the Double-Eagle styling that the earlier Manhattan design story. (see above Pic 2) The 38mm version is powered by the Co-Axial Calibre 8500/8501, Omega's latest in-house calibre.

The new 8500 series of calibres are no slouches. Click here for a review of this high-tech marvel from the Omega stable.

The New Omega Speedmaster Professionals

2009-06-20T01:01:00.000-07:00

Two OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Apollo 11 “40th Anniversary” Limited Edition watches have been released to celebrate this important milestone: one in stainless steel
and sterling silver (7,969 pieces); the other in platinum and 18 Ct yellow gold (69 pieces).

Both are powered by OMEGA’s calibre 1861, which shares its lineage with the calibre 321 used in the original Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. The stainless steel casebody is delivered with a stainless steel bracelet which has been upgraded to include OMEGA’s patented screw and pin system. The black dial also recalls that of the Moonwatch with some key differences. The small seconds counter (sub-dial) is a medallion which features an adaptation of Apollo 11’s famous mission patch: an eagle descends to the lunar surface with an olive branch representing peace in its claws. In the distance, far above the horizon, the earth is visible.

The patch was designed by Michael Collins who remained in the Apollo 11 capsule as Command Module Pilot while his colleagues Armstrong and Aldrin were in the Lunar Module and on the moon.

The watch’s hour, minute and the red-tipped chronograph seconds hands are coated with Super-LumiNova. The minute and hour chronograph counter hands are white and there is a brushed, rhodium-plated small seconds hand in attractive relief to the slightly recessed medallion on the counter.

Click here for a review of these exclusive models

Omega Offers a Limited Edition Seamaster Bond

2009-06-19T23:54:00.000-07:00

While the movie may have been without much of a story, the Omega Bond Seamaster certainly looks great on our hero's wrist.

Omega Bond Seamasters also include a limited edition Quantum of Solas model - seen above. The black textured surface of its dial – reminiscent of the grip of 007’s trademark Walther PPK – distinguishes the OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m "Quantum of Solace" from every other James Bond limited edition watch. The blood red tip of the seconds hand rotates in stark contrast to the black dial.

New Omega Offerings at Baselworld Watch Show

2009-06-19T23:12:00.000-07:00

Omega launched a range of new and 'homage' models at Baselworld, Switzerland's premier watch event, held in early April 2009.

While a bevy of American astronauts stole the limelight at the Omega launch of two limited edition Speedmasters, one model that did not fall under the radar was the reintroduced 1970's icon and quintessence of 1970s brutalism - the Ploprof.

The new Omega Co-Axial Ploprof 1200M bears a strong physical resemblance to its famous ancestor and it carries on the traditions of robust reliability and water resistance which have always defined OMEGA’s divers’ watches. But there are some improvements under the bonnet, which include a member of the first family of in-house manufactured movements since the 1000 movements series, the Omega Co-axial calibre 8500.

Click here for the complete Omega Baselworld catalogue

Click here for a review of the Ploprof